On the eigth day of Christmas markets...

...my true love gave to me, eight trolls a skulking

So today was supposed be R&R and it started that way. We slept in until 11am and then went to the club room for lunch (no breakfast for the sleepy heads). At lunch, which was nice, consisted of soup, cheeses, pasta, breads, etc. We didn't eat a ton, but had plenty. As we sat and tried to decide what to do today, a lovely lady from the Sheraton came by our little table and asked us what we were doing today (hmmm...was just the topic at the table before she arrived). We said we were not sure. We told her what we had done and then she asked us if we had been to the Hellbrunn Christmas market. We said no! She went on to explain it was the best. Not commercialized like the one in the square, but a more traditional market. She told us to catch bus #25 and it would be about a 15 minute ride out of town. After that, she went on to tell us how today was a very special day as St. Nicholas comes tonight. After the kids get home from school, they clean their boots and set them outside. Tonight, if they have been good, Santa will leave them sweets in their boots. If they have been bad, they will find a broom. The good thing is Santa comes again on the 25th (like us) and IF they have improved in their behavior, St. Nick will leave them goodies later this month. As a tradition, St. Nicholas parades all around town tonight with an entourage of devils (that stink) and if you've been bad they will whip you with their tails. She said it can hurt if you get whipped, so wear "trousers". This starts downtown at 5pm. You will see masses of people and hear loud bells. You can walk with them in the parade or just watch them go by. Sounds like the perfect day.

So we thanked her and went downstairs to get ready to catch bus #25. When we arrived at the Hellbrunn stop, the entire bus unloaded, so we knew we must have been at the right spot. We didn't know which direction to go, but we followed the crowd right to the market. It was one of the best markets so far (and to think we were so close and almost missed it). As we entered the area it was a huge beautiful place. A large park was in the back and the Salzburg zoo was just next door (we didn't hit the zoo). There were shops of all kinds and music. It was more of a family-friendly place as it had a petting zoo, a place where kids could make and bake their own cookies, it had fires where you could roast hot dogs and marshmallows and of course, gluhwein for the big kids. :) The shops had more hand crafted items and there were artisans working on them at the stands (this is always more fun). So Guy and I selected a meeting spot but this time I needed an hour. I dropped him at the petting zoo and headed for some shopping. I scouted everything out first but ended up getting several nice things. They had Christmas trees everywhere and the feel of this market was just different somehow. I loved it. So I bumped into Guy before the meeting place and he told me all about the petting zoo (he wants a rabbit now). He told me I HAD to go back with him before we left. Ha Ha. So we finished up the shops, looked around the park, bought a few goodies and headed for the petting zoo. As we were on the way we took a side entrance and came across this beautiful fish pond/fountain area. We walked around the entire thing and it was quite lovely. As we reached the petting zoo we saw all kinds of fun animals but the funniest of all were the brown furry pigs. They were having a blast playing all around their pen and were putting on quite the show. There were sheep and rams and tiny horses that little ones could ride on. There was a giant turkey just walking around by himself and gobbling constantly. The bunnies were cute (I was expecting Jack Rabbits) but these were small ones, some with floppy ears. This is the spot where the kids had their fun zone with games, roasting marshmallows and making the cookies. We went inside the little shop where they had the cookie making and the set up was just adorable. AND smelt fantastic! We took the daily selfie and several other pictures. Again it was a gloomy day, but it didn't matter. :)

Back to town we headed for the hotel to enjoy a hot chocolate and warm up before going to see the craziness of St. Nick and the trolls (I've got to get the real name of these creatures) While drinking our hot chocolate we asked the gal in the club room which street all this would take place on. That is when she began her story. Obviously quiet traumatized last year from St. Nick and his entourage, she goes on to tell us that the trolls are often drunk. DO NOT make eye contact with them. She said if one sees you and comes toward you - RUN! She said if they catch you, they do terrible things to you. She said she hid behind a big man last year after one of them spotted her and came for her. She was hilarious with her story. She told us over and over, "Don't let them see you looking and if they do RUN and RUN fast and they will chase you". Ha Ha. Should be an interesting event.

We headed out of the hotel for a nice walk along the river in anticipation of the festivities. We took the far bridge again so I could get some shots of downtown at night (since I didn't have my camera with me last night). So after a little research on the Internet, the 5th of December is the "Kramustag" where young men dress up in fur and evil masks and are called Perchten (pagan spirits) and they are scary. They carry oxen tails and whip you if you have been bad. Eek. Our gal from the hotel may have exaggerated just a bit, but they certainly were scary and we did see them pull a girl away from the group and put her in a cart...but I think she was willing to join the parade. I can't imagine people would want their kids exposed to these scary beasts, but it was certainly interesting to experience this tradition. Nothing like we've ever seen before. Fun Fun Fun.

After our experience with St. Nick (I did get video and several shots) we headed to the market for just a few minutes for me to get one last ornament and watch the kids ice skating. We walked toward our restaurant and we were a bit early but they had our table ready. It was a tiny place, very dark wood and if I'm not mistaken it is part of the oldest hotel in Salzburg. The waitresses had traditional clothes on and everything had hearts on it. The name of the restaurant is called e'Herzl which means "heart". So there were hearts everywhere. I already knew I wanted the goulash as I had to have one last authentic meal and Guy had the venison - both were AMAZING! The service was great and we highly recommend this restaurant. It had a really authentic feel to it and you felt like you had gone back in time. Really nice.

We strolled along the river on the way home and even though it is cold and misty, it was magical to hear Christmas songs being played by street musicians in the distance. It was before 8 pm, but the town is still bustling with people on every street. Reflecting back on our stay in Salzburg, we decided we were here the perfect amount of days. We saw the highlights and markets and if it hadn't been for the markets and Christmas activities, 3 days may have been too many. I would like to come here again in the summer and again in the winter when it is covered in snow. Basically I think I'm saying I want to come here again...

Tomorrow morning bright and early begins our trip to Italy. 3 trains, a bus and a cab. I'm sure it will be another beautifully sceneic adventure! Ciao!