On the ninth day of Christmas markets...

... my true love gave to me, nine forms of transportation

Ok not really nine, but we did take myriad forms of transportation today. :) We left the suite at the Sheraton, *sniff sniff - tear* - ate some breakfast and headed out to the train station just after 7am to begin our Italian Ski Adventure! We were plenty early again, so we bought some pretzels in a little bakery inside the station and sat inside the shop to keep warm til our train came. It arrived about 20 minutes early, so we hopped on and picked a good seat for our 2 hour ride. Sadly, I fought to keep my eyes open for the first hour and I'm sure I missed some beautiful scenery, but after we started getting into the really good stuff, there was no way I could sleep through it. For a good deal of the trip (that I saw) we were up high looking down at the towns. It seemed like we followed this spectacular river the entire way. It was the most interesting green color and I promise you it had to be COLD! As we traveled on the train, the day (again) was foggy, but you could see the mountains pretty well. And when you have mountains...you have tunnels. 

Not a big fan of the tunnel, and some of these were pretty long, but our ears were not popping too bad and we never had to stop in one...so that is good. As we traveled along there was not a flake of snow to be seen. However, another train passed us going the opposite way and Guy said he saw snow on it. So as we went through one tunnel and emerged on the other side the entire train car GASPED at the sight. Snow! And I mean SNOW! Hanging off the trees, piled on the rooftops, and totally covering the ground. It was one of the coolest things I've ever been surprised with. One side nothing, a dark tunnel, then Bam - A white winter wonderland! I guess if you are yawning right now it was one of those "had to be there" moments. But trust me when I say it was awesome. 

So after a two hour ride we switched trains, and then after an hour ride we switched trains and then after a 45 minute ride we switched trains, and then after a 4 minute ride we switched trains. Not joking. But honestly it wasn't really that bad at all. All the trains were on time and we never waited more than 15 minutes at each station for the next one to arrive. When we were on the last train Guy looked at me and said "We've had such good luck with the trains I hope the bus...." and I immediately shushed him! Don't jinx us now! So when we got to the final train stop it was like a ghost town. Not a soul to ask about the bus, where to get a ticket, etc. So we kinda looked around and finally Guy went down to a bar and asked about the bus. The dude in the shop (with a cowboy hat, beard, and a bit sketchy) said it would be by about 2pm. So we had an hour. Ok...if that was the longest we had to wait today then that isn't too bad. 

So promptly at 2:10 pm our bus arrives. It was a 45 minute ride to Cortina, but it didn't really seem that long. It made 5 or 6 quick stops and the only hairy part was the road was a bit twisty turny and yes, the cliff dropped off just to my right out the window. But only once did I grab Guy's leg and am glad that on the ride back we will be hugging the mountain instead. 

Once we arrived at Cortina we went to the taxi stand and the cabbie loaded us up. This time we had the address written down (lol) and once he looked at it he looked at us and shrugged his shoulders.  He basically said he could take us there, no problem, but it was only a 300 meter walk down the hill.  So scratch that final form of transportation off the list as we hoofed it down the hill instead. Now all the guy said was down and turn but he didn't really say which way. So Guy went into a ski shop to ask for better directions. I thought he had been kidnapped because he was gone forever, but he comes out smiling and apparently he and some ski dude hit it off and talked ski talk. Hello? I'm outside freezing with the bags!! *end rant*

The hotel Aquila is conveniently located right down in the middle of the action. It is a pedestrian area, which is nice, and like most of the area, it has a swiss feel to the architecture. We checked in, got our gigantic oversized Italian key and Guy headed up in the elevator to the first floor alone (the elevator wasn't big enough for the both of us and luggage - not that I would have gone in it). The room seems extra small (coming from the Sheraton suite) and has no slippers, no shampoo, and worst of all - a terrible wifi connection in the room. But it is cute, extremely clean and has a big balcony. We unloaded our stuff and headed out for a snack. It is about 3pm by this time and we've had no lunch. We needed to find a place to sit and talk about our early exit strategy from Cortina - and this is why...

No Snow.

At first, on the train when we saw the beautiful white stuff, we thought we'd be good. In fact the girl at the Sheraton last night says she has family here and she said they got dumped on. She promised skiing. But as we got closer and closer to Cortina, the snow got less and less and in some places there was none. As we saw the town, we could see the snow at the top of the mountain. Way, way, way at the top of the mountain. But all the lower area  - nothin. So you have to go all the way to the top to ski, then when you are ready to come down you have to ski to mid-station and ride back down. The only issue for me is I don't do "the F".  The F was the name of the gigantic 150 person gondola/cable car in Italy that I rode back in 2006 - that was so high off the ground it was part of the sky - like the one the American military jet clipped a few years earlier and sent everyone to their deaths. I rode it once out of ignorance and hated it. The second time I rode it, with 149 others crammed in like sardines, I cried all the way to the top. Guy promised he'd never make me do that again. So guess how you get to the top here? The F.

Time to discuss Plan B. There are only a few little "Christmas stands" here, not like the markets elsewhere, but there are lots of shops and fun things to do around the village. That is where you will find me tomorrow. Guy, however, is going to ride The F and go for it. BTW, he looked it up and it dangles from a tiny wire over a half mile off the ground. Have fun! I'll be down here smoking the credit card.  -  Now knowing the snow is bad and there is only so much shopping I can do, we surfed for a place to stay in Innsbruck for two reasons. 1. We have train tickets that go through there already. and 2. they have 4 big Christmas markets. Done and Done. Hotel booked.

Once all of today's drama was over, we headed out for a place to have dinner. Trip Advisor highly recommended one place and while Guy was booking our new reservations I went out to scout the place out. I finally found it and when I did...it was dark inside. Well it is already 5:30 pm here, and it should be open. And it is a Saturday night! Hmm.....and the hotel above it was closed as well. So back to the room for yet another Plan B (this one not as big of a deal). One restaurant was supposed to have good authentic Italian and I was in the mood for polenta, so we chose Restaurante 5 Torri. We got there just after 7 and they weren't quite full, so we got a table in the back (they must have been hiding the Americans from the public). So we ordered and kinda rolled the dice with our selections. I had polenta and mushroom sauté and Guy had polenta with salted cod. We also started out with a Caprese salad, my favorite. Then came the entrees. Hmmm...mine was to be expected, but Guy's was flaked fish in some kind of white sauce and was on the plate more as a sauce than a main course. It was fishy and I thought it tasted more like clams. yuck. Both of us agreed we wouldn't order ours again, but it is always fun to try something new. The tiramisu was the bomb and it patched up the wounds caused by the flaked fish. :)

Back at the room we officially unpacked (my ski stuff will remain sucked tight in my space bag) and showered. It has been quite the day and we both feel good about the plans for the rest of the trip. The lack of snow won't slow us down! So good night from beautiful snowless Cortina, Italy. I'm sure there will be more stories for tomorrow. 

P.S. I will try to upload pictures tomorrow. The wifi at the hotel is worse than dial up, so I may try to find a place in town tomorrow for a cappuccino and free wifi. :)